Coco Before Chanel

2009 - Dir: Anne Fontaine

Shown at The FeckenOdeon on 11th November, 2011

There are few names more iconic than Chanel, yet few think of the word as anything other than a fashion brand. With Coco Avant Chanel, director-screenwriter Anne Fontaine portrays how Gabrielle Chanel, dispatched, along with her sister, to an orphanage on the death of her mother, transformed herself from lowly would-be orphan to the epitome of style and class, via the salons and boudoirs of the Belle Époque.

Fontaine spares us the grand arcs of an overwrought biopic, offering instead the quiet successes and failures of everyday life as experienced by an impoverished but brilliant young woman at the dawn of the twentieth century.

Chanel had no illusions about herself. Small-bosomed and narrow-hipped, she once said said, “Cut my head off and I look like an adolescent boy.” In fact, this “female Beau Brummell” (Cecil Beaton’s words) modernized women’s clothing in part by ransacking her lovers’ closets. Early on, as a milliner, she replaced heavy, ornate hats with severe straw boaters. As the girlfriend of polo-playing entrepreneur Boy Capel, she pioneered sportswear separates. Paramour Grand Duke Dmitri of Russia (Rasputin’s co-assassin) inspired the her to pile on exotic jewels. Instead of marrying the he-man millionaire Duke of Westminster, she appropriated his salmon fisherman’s sweaters and tweeds. This film would not have impressed her - moviemakers throughout her career loved her - Chanel did not return the compliment. She described Holywood as “the Mont-Saint-Michel of tit and tail,” and considered its celluloid goddesses to be distasteful.

Audrey Tautou is hardly a celluloid goddess... yet! She first came to international attention in the quirky “Amelie” (shown here in April 2010). She’s worked consistently since that 2001 triumph but has never hit the same stellar note. She was particularly miscast in the tedious DaVinci Code. In this film she has a role to suit her better.

• The designs and costumes for the film were supervised by Karl Lagerfeld - Chanel’s Chief Designer. Audrey Tautou wears one of Coco’s own outfits in the final scenes.
• There was speculation that Coco Chanel had been a Nazi collaborator and/or spy during WW2. She remained in Paris and is alleged to have had affairs with German officers. More likely is the theory that she merely manipulated the Germans in order to continue living in luxury at The Hotel Ritz.
• Jackie Kennedy was wearing a pink Chanel suit when JFK was assassinated in Dallas in 1963.
• Coco Chanel died, aged 87 in January 1971 in her wartime home the Hotel Ritz in Paris.